A tweet from former Seattleite and pro pastry chef Dana Cree intrigued me: “if you buy coconut cream as well as milk you can make ice cream w/o any thickeners. 20% cream, 55% milk. 25% sugar + salt tt” That was in September. It was cold. I didn’t make any ice cream. I filed the tweet away for a sunny day. On Saturday, that day arrived. I bought the three beautiful champagne mangoes to flavor the ice cream. Or rather, the frozen dessert: without milk, cream, or eggs, it’s barely ice cream. Of course, not being able to...
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